Table of Contents[Hide][Show]

No matter how you “slice” it, the flavor of a home-grown watermelon ripened to perfection in the sun, will blow you away and is well worth the effort!
Types of Watermelon
There are over 1,200 varieties world-wide differing in shape, size, color, texture, nutrient profile, and desirable agricultural characteristics (e.g., disease resistance and high-yield). Watermelons can range in size from 2 pounds to over 200 pounds (1kg to 90kg)! The flesh of the fruit can be red, pink, orange, yellow, or white with rinds that are green, golden, purplish or black.
In general, watermelon can be categorized into three main kinds: early season, main season and seedless.

Early Season: Sometimes referred to as ‘ice-box melons’ since they are smaller in size, which means they easily fit on the shelf of your refrigerator. On average these melons take 70 to 75 days to mature. Examples include bush sugar baby and ana.
Main Season: These melons are larger in size and usually take between 80 and 90 days for a ripe watermelon. Examples include crimson sweet and neptune.
Seedless: Seedless watermelon are sweeter and produce more vines since the plant is not putting energy into producing seeds. These varieties are gaining in popularity, accounting for 85% of total US watermelon sales in 2014.
Getting Started
Since watermelons are native to Africa, if you’re planning on growing melons in your garden at home, you’ll need lots of sunshine (full sun 8 hours or more daily), warm temperatures during the day (80 to 90°F / 26-32 °C) and a long growing season. Even if you don’t meet these basic requirements, you may still be able to pull it off if you start seeds indoors ahead of time (2 to 3 weeks before the last frost date) and choose short growing season varieties. Otherwise, you can sow watermelon seeds directly outdoors (half to an inch / 1.3 to 2.5 cm deep) in warm soil once the soil temperature has reached at least 70°F (21°C), keeping the soil moist during germination. Watermelon seedlings are delicate – before transplanting, make sure any danger of frost has passed. Also, don’t start indoor seeds too early as large plants transport poorly since they don’t like their roots to be disturbed. Even better, consider growing seedlings in compostable pots that can be planted directly into the garden.
Where Best to Plant
When choosing where to plant your watermelon in your home garden or raised bed, keep in mind that this fruit does best in loamy, somewhat sandy, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic (soil pH between 6 and 7). In addition, watermelons are heavy feeders, meaning they need soil that is fertile and has a high nutrient level (for instance, add compost, seaweed or manure). Space plants about 2 to 5 feet (60 to 150 cm) apart in raised rows or mounds to ensure good drainage, leaving 7 to 10 feet (2 to 3 m) between rows. These plants require a lot of space as the vines can grow as long as 20 feet (6 m) in length (just like their pumpkin cousins!) As the name suggests, this fruit needs plenty of water. From planting until fruit begins to form ensure plants get 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of water per week. Soil should be moist but not water-logged and plants should be watered at their base. Mulch around the base of plants once they reach 4 inches (10 cm) tall to slow weeds, aid in moisture retention, and keep the soil cooler. Once the fruit is growing, watering can be reduced. If fertilizing, in the beginning use a nitrogen-based fertilizer to encourage leaf and vine growth but then switch to one with less nitrogen (such as a phosphorus fertilizer) after flowering begins, to encourage flower and fruit growth.
With these plants, pollination is key. Watermelon vines produce both male and female flowers separately on the same plant. Typically, male flowers appear several weeks before female flowers (fashionably late to make an entrance!). The female flowers are distinctive as they have a swollen bulb at the base and will be the ones to eventually bear fruit. In order for this to happen, pollination needs to occur so “bee” kind to the bees (for instance, consider planting companion plants that attract bees!) However, if you need to, you can always encourage fruit production by pollinating by hand. First thing in the morning after flowers have opened, use a cotton swab or small paint brush to gently remove pollen from the male flower and transfer to the female, placing the pollen on the stigma (the raised area in the centre of the open female flower).

Once fruit begins to grow and is ripening, you can help prevent rotting by gently placing a piece of cardboard or straw between the fruit and the ground.
If you want to grow seedless watermelons, there are a few things to keep in mind. The seeds don’t germinate as well so start more seeds than you think you’ll need to ensure you get a few good ones. Other than that, follow the same steps as previously discussed. However, seedless watermelons need pollen from a seeded variety in order to produce fruit so you’ll have to plant both kinds near each other.
If you have a small garden and space is limited, you can also grow watermelon in containers. To begin, it is important to choose a pot with lots of drainage holes that is large enough to accommodate the growing plant (5-gallon or 19 kg). Fill with potting soil or other soilless mix and most importantly choose a variety well-suited for pots, one that is compact and grows small fruit. Plant the seed and water well. Add a trellis or teepee so that the vine will grow upwards and not take up an enormous amount of space. If there aren’t enough pollinators in your area (especially if high up on a balcony), you may need to pollinate by hand. Once the fruit starts to grow, you will need to provide additional support such as a hammock under the fruit made of a stretchy, flexible material (think pantyhose). Water daily and twice daily if temperatures rise above 80 °F (27 °C). Use a granulated slow-release fertilizer once a month or water-based fertilizer weekly.
Pests & Diseases
Watermelon plants are susceptible to a variety of pests and diseases that can impact their growth and fruit production. Pests affecting watermelon plants include aphid, cucumber beetles, vine borers, spider mites, thrips, squash bugs, cutworms, armyworms, and melon worms. Using floating row covers, attracting beneficial insects, and hand-picking pests can help minimize infestations.
Fungal diseases affecting watermelon plants include powdery mildew, downy mildew, fusarium wilt, anthracnose, and gummy stem blight – especially at high humidity. These plants are also susceptible to bacterial fruit blotch. To prevent these diseases ensure good air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and select disease-resistant watermelon varieties.

Harvest Time
From start to finish growing watermelon takes about 120 days depending on cultivar. Harvest when the bottom of the fruit, sitting on the soil, turns yellow, the color of the peel becomes duller and the plant curly tendrils turn brown and crisp – generally ripening occurs over a 2-week period before the melon reaches peak ripeness. Keep in mind that the fruit does not continue to ripen once picked, so it’s important to wait for the right moment when harvesting watermelon. Cut the stems with a sharp knife close to the fruit.
Lastly, enjoy the thirst-quenching “fruits” of your labor on a hot summer’s day!
Grow Your Own Garden
If you’re looking for help on how to grow other foods check out these posts!